Lydia Pinkham: Women’s Health Entrepreneur

I recently spent a week in Maine, visiting my BFF from graduate school. We indulged in history nerdery. We binge-watched Ride or Die on Netflix.[1] We ate great food. And we talked about the ideas that are driving me these days: women artists, women entrepreneurs, and what a young woman from the Midwest would have experienced when she got off the train in New York City in 1893. I came away with a lot of notes, a lot of questions, and some progress on my book proposal.

When Karin suggested Lydia Pinkham (1819-1883) as a woman entrepreneur that I should look at, I pooh-poohed the idea. I wasn’t sure that Pinkham was a real person. (She was.) And even if she was a real person, she would be too early for my purposes. (True.) But not too early for a blog post.

Lydia Estes Pinkham was a household name—and face— in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Her image appeared on bottles of her famous tonic and in ads selling them. In fact, according to one of my sources, her image was so familiar that some American newspapers used her picture when they reported Queen Victoria’s death in 1901.[2]

She was born into a large Quaker family —the tenth of twelve children—on a farm in Lynn, Massachusetts., where she attended the Lynn Academy and was actively involved in movements dedicated to the ideas and causes of the time, including Swedenborgianism, abolition, temperance, and women’s issues. She spent several years working as a teacher in Lynn and worked with Frederick Douglass as the secretary of the Freedman’s Institute.

In 1843, she married Isaac Pinkham, a widower with a daughter. Together they had several more children. For the next thirty years, Lydia was primarily a homemaker, though she had a side hustle as an herbalist with a focus on perfecting an herbal treatment for “female complaints.”

For years she shared her tonic with family and friends, many of whom believed the formula helped them.[3] When the family’s finances, always shaky, reached a new low as a result of the bank failures of 1873[4], Lydia, at the urging of her son, Daniel, decided to try selling bottles of what they named Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Compound.

Ads for the product leaned heavily on slogans such as “Only a woman can understand a woman’s ills,” and in fact Pinkham’s compound was one of the earliest products made by a woman for women. The use of Pinkham’s image in advertising, another of Daniel’s ideas, underscored the idea.

Pinkham went further and invited women to write to her for advice. The company received so many letters that Pinkham set up an all-woman Department of Advice to respond to them. She also wrote a book intended to help women understand their bodies— the nineteenth century equivalent of Our Bodies, Our Selves. The book was distributed at no charge under several different titles.

Doctors dismissed the compound as just another quack nostrum; in fact, one of its primary ingredients, black cohosh, is used today to ease menstrual difficulties.[5] Women embraced it. The business grew from a one-woman operation to a factory that brewed and shipped roughly $300,000 of the tonic and related pills and lozenges each year at the time of Lydia’s death.[6]

The company stayed in business until the mid-twentieth century. Today at least two companies offer similar products, under variants of Lydia’s name, with an ingredient list very similar to her original tonic.

 

[1] Many thumbs up, with the caveat that it is more violent than the first two episodes would lead you to expect.Two middle-aged women on the run from bad guys, and from themselves. Funny and smart. Excellent storytelling. Think Thelma and Louise meets James Bond.

[2] I have not been able to verify this, but I couldn’t resist sharing it.

[3] An alternate version of this story has Lydia using family and friends as lab rats as she perfected the formula. Potato,.Potahto.

[4] The first of four major economic crises that hit the country in the late 19th century, the panic of 1873 was the result of over-expansion in railroads, and triggered by a stock market crash in Vienna which led European investors to dump their American securities

[5] Despite Pinkham’s stance on temperance, the tonic also had an high alcohol content, a fact that was clearly stated on the label, with the explanation that the alcohol was used solely as a preservative. If taken as directed, the alcohol would not have been an issue, but there is no guarantee that it wasn’t misused.

[6] Roughly $10 million today

Empresses of Seventh Avenue

I will admit that I resisted reading Empresses of Seventh Avenue: World War II, New York City and the Birth of American Fashion by fashion journalist Nancy MacDonnell, despite the fact that several people I admire recommended it.

I’m not sure why. Over the years I have happily gone down rabbit holes related to the social impact of sewing machines, the development of aniline dyes, and the rise of that astonishing new institution, the department store. This time last year I took you with me on an unintentional series of posts on changes in ladies’ lingerie.[1] I’m as big a sucker as anyone for beautiful historical clothing, beautifully displayed—especially if it comes with a side of historical context.

I finally picked up Empresses of Seventh Avenue because of the reading I am doing around 1) female entrepreneurs and 2) life in early 20th century New York City. It turned out that the book was not on-point for either subject, but MacDonnell caught my attention from page one with a short introduction that sets the stage with French dominance in the fashion industry, and the blunt statement “Then the Nazis invaded Paris, and everything changed.” I kept reading.

MacDonnell devotes a chapter to Louis XIV’s deliberate decision, aided by his powerful finance minister Jean-Baptiste Colbert, to reshape the damaged French economy by making France the arbiter of fashion and center of the luxury trades related to it.[2] She outlines the growth of fashion reporting from the fashion dolls of the seventeenth century to the illustrated women’s magazines that appeared as a result of new printing technologies in the mid-nineteenth century. She describes the industry of Parisian haute couture , the workings of the fashion industry in United States before World War II, and how the two intersected. I found all of it fascinating.

The heart of the book, however, is the designers who created the American Look during World War II and the journalists who, almost against their will, helped make New York a fashion capital that would rival Paris. She introduces vivid personalities with the skill of a novelist: the dueling editors of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, journalists who were enamored with French fashion and journalists who crusaded for American design, and American designers, who were often personalities in their own right. She describes the distinctive work of each designer, turning me into a Claire McCardell fan in the process.[3]

The Empresses of Seventh Avenue lost my attention after Dior introduced the New Look in 1947—not enough history and too many spot biographies of the designers of my teen years and young adulthood for my tastes. Nonetheless, I am glad I read the book and recommend it to anyone interested in clothes, fashion history, or stories of smart women making things happen.

 

[1] In case you missed them: The Secret Behind the Gibson Girl’s Shape. Ida Rosenthal: Dressmaker Turned Underwear Tycoon, and Lady Duff Gordon aka Lucile

[2] Fairy tale writer Charles Perrault  and his version of Sleeping Beauty make a cameo appearance. I love it when old interests unexpectedly collide with new.

[3] The cape coats!. The suits!  The practical pockets!

From the Archives: Choosing (Historical) Sides

A frivolous post from 2016, that feels a little more pointed today.

***

Recently a friend of mine texted me from Culloden in Scotland[1]–the battlefield where the Duke of Cumberland routed Bonnie Prince Charlie’s Jacobite forces and effectively ended the Jacobite cause. (Charles was later involved in a half-hearted French plan to invade England in 1759, but it came to naught.) She wanted to know if I wanted a Jacobite blue bonnet.

My answer–which didn’t surprise her–was no. Despite the fact that the exiled Stuarts clearly had the better legal right to the throne, I’ve always had a soft-spot for that hard-working sober-minded prince, William of Orange. And I’ve never had much use for Bonnie Prince Charlie–who I’ve always thought of as a putz rather than a failed romantic hero. (If you have strong opinions on the subject, feel free to yell at me in the comments below.)

Karin’s offer of a Jacobite blue bonnet led me to think about the fact that history buffs tend to chose sides. Sometimes it is because we agree with one side’s political position. Sometimes it’s because we have a family connection to one side of a conflict or a vested interest in the outcome. Sometimes it’s simply a question of who won. (Though Lost Causes also have their supporters.[2])

And sometimes it simply comes down to preferring one historical figure over another. In my graduate school days, classes on Victorian England quickly divided themselves into two camps on the question of who was the greatest Prime Minister of the nineteenth century, Benjamin Disraeli or William Gladstone. The members of Team Disraeli and Team Gladstone all had good solid arguments supporting their guy, but when you pushed them it eventually came down to a question of personality. [3]

Choosing sides isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as long as you realize you have a preference. In the end, no one writes objective history.

So tell me, oh Marginalia, what historical sides have you chosen and why?

 

[1] Not quite as exciting as the time she called me from Tipu Sultan’s palace at Seringapatam.  While I occasionally grumble about feeling like my cell phone is a leash, there is something pretty cool about getting instant communication from far flung historical sites.

[2] Which brings us back to Bonnie Prince Charlie. I have to give the man credit for persistence.

[3] Me? I vote for Sir Robert Peel. Call me contrary.

Sir Robert Peel

Sir Robert Peel

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